The best place to eat in Bologna isn’t even in Bologna.

Manhattan’s Chinatown functions as a symbolic microcosm of New York, a space of reinvention, immigration and synthesis. With food writer Jason Lee, we spent an evening getting lost in its restaurants and bars, discovering its culinary histories and celebrating its persistence and endurance. 

The original FOOD opened in 1971, in SoHo, New York; an experimental, utopian artist-run cafeteria. A new iteration of the project has just opened on Canal Street, fronted by artist Lucien Smith and chef Mathieu Canet, updating the original’s gastronomic innovations and artistic community for 2025.

Eric Twardzik raises a glass to the pre-Prohibition hangover remedy that still stirs the spirit today.

A behind-the-bar look with 80 Proof’s mixologist Nicholas Gatz

Beyond the crowds and canals, we explore the unpolished bars where Venice's spirit still lingers

Eric Twardzik lifts the South Side out from the julep and mojito’s shadow, uncovering its origins and easy charm.

In New York with the friends and restaurateurs behind a neighbourhood favourite

In North London with George de Vos and Alex Young, the founders behind a new kind of neighbourhood bar